Photo Report: Pitti Uomo Summer 2024 – HODINKEE

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Summer has arrived, and with it, the 106th edition of Pitti Uomo, the bi-annual men’s fashion trade show in Florence. With sleeves rolled up in the Tuscan heat, there was no shortage of amazing watches as the 15,000 or so attendees took to the street and enjoyed the event’s reputation as a Mecca of men’s style.

More than any previous edition, this season marked a sharp change in tastes, with exotic, often bespoke leather straps replacing tried-and-true NATOS and a mix of Genta-inspired designs and Tank cases proving the popular format for watches. At Pitti Uomo, vintage Rolex has kept the crown for decades, and for the first time, new models (particularly the latest brightly colored faces from the Oyster Perpetual line) shook that up. Green faces, in particular, seemed popular, be they new or vintage (just ask the team from Caine Clothiers).

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But what do the watches have to say about the latest fashion? For the first time in a decade, things are getting formal again, which is saying something in the Florentine heat! Pitti Uomo has always been known for suits, and they are back in center stage, but this time in reserved tonal colors – like warm greys and nearly blacks – and free of extraneous accessories… except, of course, a great watch. 

pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

Sometimes, it’s not the watch but the idea of “What watch would this guy wear?” that drives a photo. In this case, I think Paulo (@P.paolodevivo) could pull off something powerful but understated, like a Bulgari Octo Finissimo. 

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A vintage Rolex Submariner on a cuff bracelet. 

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Italians have a talent and certainly a passion for Americana that often leaves Americans in the dust; here is a great example.

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pitti uomo summer 2024

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Alan See (@thearmouryhk) with a very rare Patek Philippe 3521. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

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pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

A tale of two explorers (and two more shown below). Pitti Uomo is always a great chance to see stylish guys re-interpret the classics, be it watches or clothing. 

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A pair of Rolex Explorers. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

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pitti uomo summer 2024

Well-known vintage watch enthusiast Alessandro Squarzi (@alessandrosquarzi, right) with Scott Schuman (aka the @thesartorialist, left). 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

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Paul Craughton of Robb Report. 

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Paul’s vintage Vacheron Constantin. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

An Omega Seamaster as worn by Pierce Brosnan’s Bond. 

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Max wanted this watch as his father had one growing up. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

Ethan of @bryclandsco. If you want to know how to build a style that extenuates from a vintage watch collection, look no further than designer Ethan Newton. 

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Ethan’s vintage Rolex Submariner. 

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Federico Carlucci (@federico_hunter_carlucci) is a vintage collector and dealer. Just as with clothing, with watches, there are the right proportions and the right proportions for you.

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Federico pulls off a giant Panerai Luminor beautifully.

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Kenji of @bryclandsco sports a lovely Rolex Oyster Chronograph 3525. 

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Kenji always adds a certain amount of chic to an overall vintage style. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

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pitti uomo summer 2024

Greg Lalouche of @nomanwalksalone. 

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Greg Lalouche wears his vintage Rolex Submariner on a tan NATO strap. 

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My argument for anything in a tank format. 

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Marco of @marcotaddeiofficial. 

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Marco wears a Gerald Charles on his wrist. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

Alessandro Pirounis (@pirounis.Official). 

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Alessandro is wearing his mother’s Cartier Tank. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

Jonathan (of @cainclothiers) wears a Finair Omega with a brilliant green dial, given to him by his grandfather in 1978. He has restored it twice and wears it every day, recently adding a bespoke ABP-made crocodile strap to it.

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Jonathan of @cainclothiers.

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pitti uomo summer 2024

Perhaps my favorite combination for the summer, a classic Cartier tank paired up with some very unusual suiting. 

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Brian of @hespokestyle. 

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Brian is wearing his Cartier Tank Américaine 100th anniversary edition, a gift from his wife to celebrate their wedding.

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pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

Cory Sylvester of @michaelandrewsbespoke with his two-tone Rolex submariner, which was a gift to celebrate a work anniversary. 

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Steve Caldeer (@informale_) smartens up a simple summer style with his Omega Speedmaster. 

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pitti uomo summer 2024

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pitti uomo summer 2024

Worlin (of @caineclothiers) chose this new Rolex Oyster Perpetual for its smaller size and unusual dial color, something that excited him for the summer season in Finland. 

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Worlin of @caineclothiers.

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A custom Maurice De Mauriac with patinated bronze case. 

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Otto of @caineclothiers, a serious suit with a stainless steel watch – a good reminder that the classics are so for a reason. 

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Otto and his classic Rolex Explorer. 

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I really enjoyed the texture play here, the sharply cut bezel of this Rolex Datejust against the subtle texture of the seersucker suit and open-knit shirt.

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pitti uomo summer 2024

pitti uomo summer 2024

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